Keychains from "Tumbling Tower Game" wooden blocks
OuiBCr8f
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Design Files
Block Keychain BULK JIG.xcs
Details
Comments
Remixes
Contents
Introduction
Basic Information
Instruction
Step1
Step2
Step3
Step4
Step5
Step6
Step7
Step8
Step9
Step10
Design Files
OK, so the secrets out that you can use Jenga blocks or "Tumbling Tower Game" wooden blocks to create some simple keychains for gifts or prizes for friends and family. I bought them at the Dollar store and there are 72 pieces in each set so that's a lot of keychains. Unlike what the packaging shows, half the blocks are painted brown and the others are natural. The painted ones have a special use.
Basic Information is loading...
Step 1
2 More images
Well, here we go. We've all seen the Jenga-like game at the dollar store (if not, hurry before they sell out) and wondered, "what can I do with those?" I've seen others use them as keychains, refrigerator magnets, mementos of events and pretty much everything including customized game pieces for Jenga. But let's focus on Keychains. Once you have them, measure them. We're going to make a jig to help us create perfectly placed (or near perfect) images onto each piece by bulk.
Step 2
First I sized one of the blocks of wood that I will be using. It measured 48mm x 15.8mm. I created a rectangle with those dimensions and used the "Array-Grid" tool to generate similar frames. With the "Array-Grid" tool I decided to create 25 frames that represent each wooden block that I'm going to engrave. So, that's 5 columns and 5 rows. Then you'll want to spread them out a bit. I chose spacing of 10mm along the X axis and 9 along the Y axis. Remember those spacings for later.
Once you have the frames positioned how you want them, select all, chose score or cut and set your power and speed settings. I initially went with the preset "3.5mm cardboard (45pcs)" setting that xTool has but it depends on the type of cardboard you use and the thickness. Be very careful when cutting cardboard or paper. Use low settings and be vigilant, watch the cutting as it happens even if you "think" it's safe, you can never be sure. I don't have photos of the actual jig cutting but, it's very basic, you're cutting out "frames" to place your wooden blocks.
Step 3
So, you've cut out a jig, and placed your wooden blocks into the frames/holes. Lock those rectangle frames in place and make sure the power output is turned off for the rest of it's use.
TIP: You'll notice a few black marks on the jig, these were made to align the jig along the same spot with the lines I have on my base. If you don't have a grid on your base, well, can't help you there. These black lines help me align the jig in the same spot every time. Remember to "hide background" when you're importing images. It makes things easier.
Step 4
OK, here is where the fun begins! So, you have your "frames" locked in place and you're ready to import images or text. Consider the dimension of the wooden block when looking for items to engrave. They can be stretched a little to fit but for the most part you're looking for narrow images or text.
Step 5
2 More images
First let's take a look at adding text.
Making bulk keychains with a single word or name is very easy when using the "Array/Grid" tool. Similar to creating the frames, you will create one word/name and place it centered on your first frame. Then choose Array - Grid. Begin with your frame settings for the distance between X and Y axis. You can increase or decrease as needed and get them as close to centered into each frame. Remember, hide the background so you can focus on centering the text in the center of the frame.
You can do a full page or row by row of various styles/words/phrases or images.
Yeah, the full page of my name was just a test...I mean I wasn't going to engrave ALL of them with my name...it was just a test....I mean it's looks so cool and stuff but, yeah...it was just a test.
Step 6
Setting 1
Process Method
Vector Laser Engrave
Power(%) or Cut Pressure(g)
100
Speed(mm/s)
60
Next, let do images. You can import logos, clip art, or even random clip art and add text.
If you look closely in the photo, you can see a wide range of images around my workspace that I've used. Since all of these will be used for gifts, I've used "public domain" or "license free" images shared on the internet (not for commercial use). If you plan on selling your keychains, ALWAYS make sure you have a commercial license for ALL the images you use.
The bulk process is the same. Import your images, fit it to the frame you want to use, Array-Grid, space them out accordingly.
In this photo example I chose 5 images and will make 5 copies (1 image per row).
Step 7
Setting 1
Process Method
Vector Laser Engrave
Process Material
3mm Basswood Plywood
Power(%) or Cut Pressure(g)
100
Speed(mm/s)
60
Lines per cm
100
Pass
1
Bitmap mode
Grayscale
Other Parameters
10mm thickness / no prisms or riser
The Speed can vary from 60mm/s to 80mm/s depending on what you're engraving.
So here we go, send your project to process.
NOTE: I usually use 80mm/s speed for the text and 60mm/s speed for very detailed images. For basic clipart I use 70mm/s speed. These are just subtle differences and I would suggest try one of these settings and see which you like best for your project.
DO NOT walk away! keep an eye on this project as you would ALL projects. I've noticed the deeper you engrave the more "sap" tends to come out from your wood. Wood sap is flammable.
Step 8
This is a very important step: Clean the laser head chamber and laser head. Doing these wooden keychains will create a lot of smoke and will cause your fans (the laser head and exhaust fans) to need a good cleaning. Take the time to do it before you begin your next project. Trust me...your M1 will thank you!
Step 9
5 More images
Still with me? We're almost done.
Once you get them engraved, remove them from the hopper. You'll notice some shiny substance on a few of them. Some of it may be the paint but also the sap from the engraved wood. We'll need to sand that off because it's kinda sticky and that's no fun on keychains. You can also use a degreaser but sanding the painted ones will give them a very cool look (take a look at the cowboy and horse, I love the way the partially sanded paint gives it a nice scenery). ANY sandpaper will do. I honestly have no clue what "grit" I was using on the sanding block I have but it's one of those sanding blocks from the dollar store.
Step 10
4 More images
The FINAL step!!!
Adding the keychain, screw eye and loop. You can get the bag of parts from Amazon, eBay or a few other places like Wal-Mart, Hobby Lobby etc. I used a poker to make a little starter spot, not exactly a deep pilot hole; just enough to allow the small screw eye to grab onto the wood. The wood is soft so don't poke to deep or the small screw eye won't catch onto the wood. If this does happen (like in my 5th photo) try poking another hole near the first one but make sure it grabs.
Well, there ya go! Easy right?? So sorry this is very long and detailed but I had to cover a lot and I hope you learned a lot as well.
PLEASE PLEASE leave your feedback and any comments or suggestions that you may have. looking forward to hearing from you.
Well, here we go. We've all seen the Jenga-like game at the dollar store (if not, hurry before they sell out) and wondered, "what can I do with those?" I've seen others use them as keychains, refrigerator magnets, mementos of events and pretty much everything including customized game pieces for Jenga. But let's focus on Keychains. Once you have them, measure them. We're going to make a jig to help us create perfectly placed (or near perfect) images onto each piece by bulk.
First I sized one of the blocks of wood that I will be using. It measured 48mm x 15.8mm. I created a rectangle with those dimensions and used the "Array-Grid" tool to generate similar frames. With the "Array-Grid" tool I decided to create 25 frames that represent each wooden block that I'm going to engrave. So, that's 5 columns and 5 rows. Then you'll want to spread them out a bit. I chose spacing of 10mm along the X axis and 9 along the Y axis. Remember those spacings for later.
Once you have the frames positioned how you want them, select all, chose score or cut and set your power and speed settings. I initially went with the preset "3.5mm cardboard (45pcs)" setting that xTool has but it depends on the type of cardboard you use and the thickness. Be very careful when cutting cardboard or paper. Use low settings and be vigilant, watch the cutting as it happens even if you "think" it's safe, you can never be sure. I don't have photos of the actual jig cutting but, it's very basic, you're cutting out "frames" to place your wooden blocks.
So, you've cut out a jig, and placed your wooden blocks into the frames/holes. Lock those rectangle frames in place and make sure the power output is turned off for the rest of it's use.
TIP: You'll notice a few black marks on the jig, these were made to align the jig along the same spot with the lines I have on my base. If you don't have a grid on your base, well, can't help you there. These black lines help me align the jig in the same spot every time. Remember to "hide background" when you're importing images. It makes things easier.
OK, here is where the fun begins! So, you have your "frames" locked in place and you're ready to import images or text. Consider the dimension of the wooden block when looking for items to engrave. They can be stretched a little to fit but for the most part you're looking for narrow images or text.
First let's take a look at adding text.
Making bulk keychains with a single word or name is very easy when using the "Array/Grid" tool. Similar to creating the frames, you will create one word/name and place it centered on your first frame. Then choose Array - Grid. Begin with your frame settings for the distance between X and Y axis. You can increase or decrease as needed and get them as close to centered into each frame. Remember, hide the background so you can focus on centering the text in the center of the frame.
You can do a full page or row by row of various styles/words/phrases or images.
Yeah, the full page of my name was just a test...I mean I wasn't going to engrave ALL of them with my name...it was just a test....I mean it's looks so cool and stuff but, yeah...it was just a test.
Next, let do images. You can import logos, clip art, or even random clip art and add text.
If you look closely in the photo, you can see a wide range of images around my workspace that I've used. Since all of these will be used for gifts, I've used "public domain" or "license free" images shared on the internet (not for commercial use). If you plan on selling your keychains, ALWAYS make sure you have a commercial license for ALL the images you use.
The bulk process is the same. Import your images, fit it to the frame you want to use, Array-Grid, space them out accordingly.
In this photo example I chose 5 images and will make 5 copies (1 image per row).
So here we go, send your project to process.
NOTE: I usually use 80mm/s speed for the text and 60mm/s speed for very detailed images. For basic clipart I use 70mm/s speed. These are just subtle differences and I would suggest try one of these settings and see which you like best for your project.
DO NOT walk away! keep an eye on this project as you would ALL projects. I've noticed the deeper you engrave the more "sap" tends to come out from your wood. Wood sap is flammable.
This is a very important step: Clean the laser head chamber and laser head. Doing these wooden keychains will create a lot of smoke and will cause your fans (the laser head and exhaust fans) to need a good cleaning. Take the time to do it before you begin your next project. Trust me...your M1 will thank you!
Still with me? We're almost done.
Once you get them engraved, remove them from the hopper. You'll notice some shiny substance on a few of them. Some of it may be the paint but also the sap from the engraved wood. We'll need to sand that off because it's kinda sticky and that's no fun on keychains. You can also use a degreaser but sanding the painted ones will give them a very cool look (take a look at the cowboy and horse, I love the way the partially sanded paint gives it a nice scenery). ANY sandpaper will do. I honestly have no clue what "grit" I was using on the sanding block I have but it's one of those sanding blocks from the dollar store.
The FINAL step!!!
Adding the keychain, screw eye and loop. You can get the bag of parts from Amazon, eBay or a few other places like Wal-Mart, Hobby Lobby etc. I used a poker to make a little starter spot, not exactly a deep pilot hole; just enough to allow the small screw eye to grab onto the wood. The wood is soft so don't poke to deep or the small screw eye won't catch onto the wood. If this does happen (like in my 5th photo) try poking another hole near the first one but make sure it grabs.
Well, there ya go! Easy right?? So sorry this is very long and detailed but I had to cover a lot and I hope you learned a lot as well.
PLEASE PLEASE leave your feedback and any comments or suggestions that you may have. looking forward to hearing from you.
Sincerest thanks for reading this!
Robert
Oui B Cr8f